Kalai: A Unique Handwoven Textile Design

Reviving Handloom with Innovative Techniques

Inspired by the declining handloom industry in Puducherry, India, Mugilan Soundiraradjou embarked on a mission to create a handloom project that would revive the fading art form. The result is Kalai, a textile design that celebrates the defects that occur during the weaving process.

Kalai stands out from other textiles with its unique properties. The fabric features intentional holes that are formed during weaving, creating intricate patterns and textures. This technique requires the weaver to stop the loom, making it highly challenging to replicate on a powerloom. The use of two shafts in a plain weave adds to the complexity and uniqueness of the design. Kalai can be used to produce both furnishing textiles and apparel, showcasing its versatility.

The realization of Kalai involved weaving the fabric on a two-shaft loom using 2/40's cotton for the warp and weft. The resulting textile is a sample measuring 500mm in width and 660mm in length, with 76 ends per inch and 56 picks per inch.

Aside from its aesthetic appeal, Kalai also offers functional benefits. The patterns formed by the non-woven areas allow light to pass through partially, making it an ideal choice for curtains or other applications where partial light filtration is desired.

The Kalai project was initiated in January 2018 and concluded in April 2018. It was exhibited at the National Institute of Fashion Technology as part of a graduation show, garnering attention and appreciation for its innovative approach to handloom textiles.

Mugilan Soundiraradjou's research focused on developing fabrics that are unique to handloom and challenging to replicate on powerlooms. By creating a distinct demarcation between handloom and powerloom fabrics, the aim was to uplift the handloom sector and provide customers with a clear understanding of the difference between the two. The technique used in Kalai can be applied to various fabrics, making it adaptable to different yarn types and counts.

The development of Kalai was not without its challenges. Creating techniques that were both production-friendly and unique to handloom proved to be a difficult task. Additionally, finding skilled weavers and convincing them to collaborate on the project took considerable time and effort.

Kalai has received recognition for its innovative design. It was awarded the Iron A' Design Award in the Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns, and Cloth Design category in 2019. This prestigious award honors designs that are well-designed, practical, and innovative, meeting professional and industrial requirements.

With Kalai, Mugilan Soundiraradjou has not only created a visually captivating textile design but also contributed to the preservation and revitalization of the handloom industry. Kalai serves as a testament to the beauty and potential of handwoven fabrics in a world dominated by powerloom production.